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| Buyer's Guide | |  |
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| Selecting
the Right Boat |
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****
Important **** |
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Never
Buy a Boat Sight Unseen. ALWAYS go and Inspect the boat. And if you need
help with the inspection hire a Professional Marine Surveyor to perform
a Survey Inspection. |
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| Before
Offer Check List |
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Research |
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Make
sure the boat has proper certification .The NMMA, or the National
Marine Manufacturer’s Association is an organization that tests
boats that are manufactured by different companies. They only certify
those boats that pass their rigorous testing. Any boat certified by the
NMMA is one that you would feel safe owning. |
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Recalls |
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Once
you have found a used boat that interests you, it is wise to call the
U.S. Coast Guard at (800) 368-5647
and ask for information about manufacturers' recalls for that particular
model. If a recall has been issued, ask the owner if the repair has been
performed. If not, find out if the period of recall is still in effect. |
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Ownership |
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One
important tip is to check the seller's proof of ownership. If the price
is a "steal," the boat may very well be stolen. So check the
necessary documents, and if they can't be produced, beware. |
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Warranties |
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Read
and understand the warranties fully before making a purchase. A warranty
can be your best friend. Make sure the dealer you buy the boat from offers
you the proper coverage in case there is any defect or problem with your
boat. You don’t want to end up having to pay huge amounts to fix
your boat because you forgot to check out the warranties! |
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Repairs
& Maintenance Records |
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Ask
the seller about his maintenance program and repairs conducted. Ask the
seller who preformed the repairs; this information may come in handy if
you buy the boat, and something goes wrong with that repair. |
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Inspection |
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Once
you pass that hurdle, it's time to inspect the boat. A primary concern
on a used power boat is its engine. A boat engine has to work much harder
than its automotive counterpart, so pay special attention to its condition.
If you are not mechanically astute, it is best to have a mechanical technician
check the engine before you commit to a sale. This is especially critical
if the boat has been used in salt water, which is much more corrosive
than fresh water. But even a cursory check of the following items will
provide some clue as to the engine's health. |
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Engine
Check |
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- Is
there oil in the bilge? It may be a sign of an oil leak and warrants
closer inspection.
- Are
there signs of lubricant leakage around gaskets, freeze plugs and hoses?
- Are
the hoses, belts and fittings cracked or brittle?
- Pull
a spark plug and see if it appears relatively new, or burnt and poorly
gapped. (This will provide an indication of how well serviced the engine
is.)
- Is
there a white chalky residue on the engine or drive? (This may indicate
that it has been running hot.)
- Check
the engine's oil condition and level. (If the oil looks milky, water
may have entered, indicating the possibility of serious mechanical problems.)
- Check
gearcase oil.
- Are
the sacrificial anodes on the drive in good shape, or should they have
been replaced long ago?
- Are
there signs that the drive, rudder or propeller have hit submerged items.
- Look
for signs of cavitation damage on the propeller(s), which is indicative
of poor performance.
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Check for broken engine mounts.
- Compression
check the engine.
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Boat
Check |
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Aside
from the engine, your inspection should also include the following: |
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Check steering and throttle controls and cables.
- Switch
on and operate all systems; bilge pump, blower, lights, stereo, winches,
freshwater sink and shower, galley stove, head, heater, air conditioner,
generator and so forth.
- Make
sure all hardware is still firmly attached and check the condition of
backing plates where possible.
- On
a sailboat, check all rigging, hardware and sails.
- Open
and close hatches.
- Check
out the fuel tanks, fittings and lines. Be sure to smell for leaks.
- Are
the batteries securely fastened in acid-proof containers?
- Perform
an out-of-water inspection to see if there are dings or cracks. Also
check for stress cracks, chips in the gelcoat, hull blisters and other
hull irregularities.
- Is
the propeller shaft and rudder stock straight?
- Is
the upholstery in good condition and the stitching still holding?
- Does
the cabin smell like mildew?
- Check
through-hull fittings to ensure they are not loose and leaking.
- Check
electrical items and connections for rust.
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Marine
Surveyor |
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If
all this checking and investigating seems a bit overwhelming or too time
consuming, you may want to hire an independent marine surveyor to do it
for you. In fact, your loan and insurance agents will probably insist
on it. And you'll probably sleep better at night! |
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A licensed surveyor is an expert in the field of boat construction, who
is also well versed in safety and manufacturing laws, requirements, recommendations
and approved practices. Some banking institutions require that the boat
be surveyed before a loan is given, especially on large vessels that represent
a sizable investment. (Usually a marine surveyor offers his services for
boats 25-feet long and larger, but there are exceptions.) It is wise to
hire a surveyor certified by such organizations as the National
Association of Marine Surveyors, or the Society
of Accredited Marine Surveyors, (800) 822-6267.
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When
the survey is conducted, it is a good idea for you to be there while it
is happening. This allows you to observe firsthand the surveyor's assessment
of the boat's condition, and permits you to ask questions that could require
answers later. Never rely on an old survey, as new problems may have cropped
up since it was conducted. |
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Sea
Trail |
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It
is not likely you would purchase a used car — or for that matter
a new one — without test driving it first. The same mentality should
be applied to buying a boat. Also, if you hired one, it is a good idea
to bring your broker along on the sea trial or demo ride |
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During your time on the water you should put the boat through a series
of tests. On a power boat, first check to see if the engine(s) are already
warm before turning the ignition. If the owner "warmed the boat up"
prior to your arrival, it may have been done to hide the fact that the
engine has problems with cold starts or it smokes a great deal before
it warms up. Check the bilge at the beginning and end of the sea trial
to see if any oil has leaked. In the case of a sailboat, raise all sails
and check the mast while under load.
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Maneuver
the boat around the dock in forward and reverse to see how well and how
quickly it responds to helm input. Then slowly work your way out to open
water and check for excessive bow steering while at slow speeds. |
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Take
note of how long it takes the boat to come on plane. Five seconds is average,
while 10 seconds is excessive for most boats. Put the boat through a series
of slaloms, wide turns and tight turns, and do these at various speeds.
In straight runs, is there a tendency for the boat to porpoise or bounce
up and down at the bow? Will adjusting the trim get rid of the problem?
Take waves at all angles and if there are no waves, create some by going
in circles. If there is a flying bridge, go up to see if your weight causes
side-to-side roll. Also check the ride below deck if the boat has a cabin. |
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Through
it all, observe whether the instruments and gauges work properly. Run
the boat long enough to know whether the engine will overheat, and be
sure to check the oil pressure gauge. |
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| The
Sale |
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If
you are satisfied with the condition of the boat and its performance,
the last consideration is price. No doubt you gave some thought to this
from the outset, but now it's time to pay serious attention. There are
several marine price guides that you can consult to get some idea of a
boat's market value, but note that these are ballpark figures and much
depends on the results of your survey and sea trials to determine ultimate
value. The following pricing guides or "blue books" are good
sources: ABOS Marine Blue Book, (800) 262-1954; BUC
Used Boat Price Guide, (800) 327-6929; NADA
Marine Appraisal Guide. |
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After
you have finished negotiating the price, put it in writing. An exchange
of cash and a handshake are not wise, even if the person you are buying
from is a friend. Your written Sales Agreement should be specific on matters
such as terms of payment, repairs that need to be made and who is responsible
for making them (including a deadline if the responsibility falls on the
seller), accessories included and not included in the purchase, delivery
dates, and any other pertinent items of the agreement. |
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| Financing
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Make
sure to have a clear understanding of your budget. Boats are very expensive
items. You should be well acquainted with your finances before you take
on the extra burden of a boat purchase. Boats with hulls for overnight
stays and rough waters are obviously more expensive than small boats for
small lakes. Know your limitations |
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****
Important **** |
| Never
Buy a Boat Sight Unseen. ALWAYS go and Inspect the
boat. And if you need help with the inspection hire
a Professional Marine Surveyor to perform a Survey
Inspection. |
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We DO NOT offer "Buyer Protection" or Seller Certification" |
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Boats
for Sale Listing Details Definitions
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| Beam |
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Bridge
Clearance |
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Beam: The maximum width or breadth of the boat for sale.
The measurement can be either in feet or meters. |
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Bridge clearance is the measurement to sufficiently
permit safe passage under Bridges. |
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Builder
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Engine
Cruising Speed |
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Builder of the Boat for Sale. Below you is a list of
Boat Builders. For
more Information Click Here
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The optimal speed of the boat
for sale, taking into account hull form, engine and
propeller functions and fuel economy. |
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| Engine
Horse Power
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Engine
Hours
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| Horsepower
a measure of the work done in a given time; 1 horsepower
is equivalent to 33,000 foot-pounds per minute or 745.7
watts; it is the unit of power in the English system
of units and commonly used to measure the output power
of marine engines; hp for short |
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How
many hours the Engine has been in use. Engine hours,
on most boats, are recorded on the tachometer.
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Engine
Manufactures Click
Here for Full List |
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| Number
of Engines |
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Engine
Maximum Speed |
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The number of Engines the boat for sale has.
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Maximum
Speed Engines will safely propel the boat for salel.
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| Engine
Overhaul Date*
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Engine
Overhaul Hours*
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| Date
of the OverHaul |
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Number
of hours Engine has operated since Overhaul |
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*An
overhauled engine is an engine which has been disassembled,
cleaned, inspected, repaired as necessary and tested
using approved procedures. The engine may be overhauled
to new limits or service limits. The engine's previous
operating history is maintained and it is returned
to you with zero time since major overhaul and a total
time since new that is the same as before the overhaul. |
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| Engine
Type/ Propulsion System |
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Engine
Year |
| The
type of Engine that propels the vessel.
For
more Information Click Here |
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The year the Engine was manufactured. |
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| Fuel
Capacity |
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Fuel
Type |
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amount of Fuel the boat for sale can hold. Fuel Tank
size. |
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The
fuel type used to operate the propulsion system. (The
Engine) |
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| Gross
Tonnage |
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Length
Over All (LOA) |
| A
measurement of the entire capacity of a ship expressed
as one gross ton for each 100 cubic feet of internal
volume. This measurement includes all spaces below deck,
as well as permanent above deck structures, and includes
spaces that are not used for cargo. |
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The
extreme fore and aft length of a ship measured from
the foremost point of the stem to the aftermost point
of the stern; commonly abbreviated as LOA
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Length
of Deck (LOD) |
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A
measurement of a ship over the deck from the peak of
the forward deck to the top of the transom. |
| Hull
Configuration |
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A "hull", or bottom of a boat, comes in several
different forms. Each form has a unique shape that give
it certain handling and performance characteristics.
Your boat has the hull form that it has to best match
the type of boating it was designed for. In general,
hull forms fall into one of the two following categories:
For
more Information Click Here |
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Maximum
Draft
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maximum
depth of water the boat for sale can safely converse.
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| Minimum
Draft |
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The minimum
depth of water the boat for sale draws. |
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Model
No./ Name |
| Class |
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Model Name or No. of the Boat For Sale. |
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Choose the respective class of your vessel. For
more Information Click Here |
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Year
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The
year the boat for sale was built. |
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